Fuji-Kawaguchiko & Oshino

Jump Ahead:
Day 1 – Oshino Hakkai Ponds
Day 2 – Fuji-Kawaguchiko Village Waterfront
Day 3 – Ooishi Village Waterfront
Day 4 – Fujimidaira Hike
Day 5 – Saiko Wild Bird Forest Park

Well, well, well…. here we are again!  It’s been a LONG time since we could do anything travel related, even just within the local area.  We’ve recently bought a house in the country and this post is actually about the local area so while it’s not so much “travelling” it still seems worthy of a new entry!  Just as an update, we’re both fully vaccinated however Japan has been extremely slow rolling out their vaccines and so that still affects our ability to travel much and do things.  It’s been so long since we’ve travelled that it took a while just to remember how to pack and use my camera!  We’re still not interested in being around people (yet) and actually found it tiring even amongst the tiny crowds outdoors and eating indoors even gives me anxiety…. hopefully, that will eventually return to normal once the cases in Japan fall again.  In the meantime, we’re still being extra careful whenever we leave the house.  Our primary reason for going to this area is because that’s where our house is and there’s a lot of work to be done, but in between working we still could find some time to explore our new hometown and enjoy it a little bit!

For the areas we visited, we had a car and/or just walked from our house, but just for information, here’s all the major bus websites for the areas.  I’ve personally ridden all of them and aside from some being pretty infrequent, they were convenient and easy enough to ride:
Highway Express Bus – https://www.fujiexpress.co.jp/highwaybus/
Local Sightseeing Bus – http://bus-en.fujikyu.co.jp/heritage-tour/detail/id/1/
Local Bus – http://bus-en.fujikyu.co.jp/route/
Fuji-Yoshida Town Sneaker Bus – https://www.fujikyubus.co.jp/townsneaker
https://www.city.fujiyoshida.yamanashi.jp/info/1948

Day 1 - Oshino Hakkai Ponds

Since it was actually Golden Week in Japan, Marie’s mom was able to join us for a few days which gave us extra reason to get away from the house and sightsee a little bit.  Although there was noticeably more people in town due to the holiday week, it still wasn’t as crowded as the peak visiting season for this area (autumn season).  After picking up Marie’s mom from Kawaguchiko Station, we decided to explore around Oshino Village area since we’ve never been.  We’ve heard this area has been becoming popular with younger families so we had researched the area a little when we were looking at houses.  It’s an isolated and quiet village but still has its touristy spot near the pond and great views of Mt. Fuji from higher elevations.  

Looking at Mt. Fuji from Kawaguchiko Station parking lot. Parking is free for 30 minutes here which is nice when you're just picking up or stopping in for souvenirs.

Since we didn’t have much of a plan, we just parked at one of the lots nearby the Oshino Hakkai area (touristy area) and decided to walk around. All the parking lots in the area are supposed to be ¥300 flat rate so it shouldn’t matter which parking lot you choose.

It's been so long since we've been around street food and to be honest still felt uncomfortable just being around people so we didn't eat anything there despite our huge craving for dango!

I really didn’t do any research on this specific area prior to going (busy focusing on the house projects) so I apologize if there’s not that much information.  Supposedly, there are 8 ponds in total fed by snow melt from Mt. Fuji.  Oshino Village itself is actually supposed to be the site of a sixth major lake surrounding Mt. Fuji which has since dried up.   If you like what you see, I’m sure Google Sensei can help you learn more!  

One of the first ponds you come across, surprisingly clear and blue water.
Probably the most popular (and crowded) pond with souvenir shops in the background. I can't imagine how crowded it would've been if not for the government discouraging travel during this week. I think we were bending the definition of travel for ourselves and even still felt a little guilty being out and about eheh...
One of the popular view spots people come here for... Mt. Fuji just a little shy still today.
Took the mask off just for the picture.
More snacks and souvenir section.
By now we've tried most of the local souvenir foods (I guess technically we're not tourists here) so we didn't need anything hehe... (shingen mochi and pickled vegetables are our usual go-to's).
Yeah no thanks... I'm almost positive they put that there because otherwise tourists would drink straight from the scoops (I've seen it happen many times).... so gross.
Decided to walk just a little bit further up to Shobu-Ike Pond
Not as great a view but less crowded at least.

There weren’t a lot of spacious restaurants without a crowd near the ponds so we walked around a little trying to find some place we could feel somewhat comfortable eating at.  After mistaking some “soba factories” as restaurants (in my defense they did used to serve food too) we finally found one that worked for us.  It was listed as a souvenir shop on the map but the restaurant is part of it.

They keep track of the name of diner and time at restaurant for COVID purposes.
Simple restaurant with the basic fares. Part of me enjoyed getting to eat non-grocery store food again but again there's always that COVID cloud hanging over your head too...
There was another nice garden next to the parking lot but I think we had enough excitement and decided to call it an early day. Earlier you could see Mt. Fuji from here too but now it's covered by clouds. Mt. Fuji is always best viewed first thing in the morning.

Day 2 - Fuji-Kawaguchiko Village Waterfront

For our second outing, we decided to explore our neighboring village of Fuji-Kawaguchiko.  We always pass by on the way to Ooishi however never really took the time to walk around together.  I would say most of the tourist associated  activities associated with Kawaguchiko lake are in this area and it’s especially popular during the autumn season with lakeside views of Mt. Fuji.  Fuji-Kawaguchiko city is a merger of all the villages in the area however the actual Fuji-Kawaguchiko village is on the northern coast of Kawaguchiko lake.  You can reach this area from Kawaguchiko Station with either the sightseeing bus or the local bus.  While there are a few museums in the area, we weren’t really interested in them so we just walked around outside and enjoyed the weather.

Mt. Fuji was super clear in the morning so I decided to see what I could see with my zoom lens. Still a lot of snow but a surprising amount would be melted away by the end of the week already.
Hard to imagine we actually stood up there after our night hike.
You can see the hiking trail outlined in the snow.

If going by car, you can find free parking in front of the Lake Kawaguchi Sweets Garden restaurant (do not park at the 7-11 parking lot).

There's a few good map boards on the roadside of the free parking area
All the highlights are shown here
There are many paths with direct access to the lake... the water is never far.
Paths are pretty well maintained and flat
Already the clouds are forming over Mt. Fuji... it was especially windy today.
Looking along the coast towards Ooishi.
One of the smelt fishing boats, complete with port-a-potty for bathroom breaks! I think prices were pretty reasonable last time I checked their website... might like to try someday.
Birds are a Marie magnet hehe
A bit windy for paddle boats and fishing but there were people enjoying anyway.
After walking along the coast we made a turn inland... towards the end of the village there's a maple tree tunnel that is most popular in the fall when the leaves change colors. Of course, when we went there was nobody else around which was nice.
In the same area is a little woodworking hobby shop where I guess you can buy some of the toys but it was closed.
Nothing all that special really...
Not sure how much of this was put together from a real plane but lot of it looked just slapped together for show...
On the walk back, we tried looking for a good restaurant to have lunch but many of them had lines due to COVID restrictions (which you really can't be mad at). Overall, the day really wasn't that crowded at all. Many restaurants here specialize in hotou, which is the regional dish consisting of a more flat udon type noodle with a bunch of vegetables in a miso broth. Great in the winter but when all the restaurants serve this you kind of want to look for something else too.
Many views of Mt. Fuji
Big piece of land and building just abandoned... seems like it could have a lot of potential being right on the main road
One of the larger activity areas along the main road, the Craft Park
Ahhh yes... hard to undo that spelling error....
Various craft buildings surround the tiny parking area... we weren't really interested in doing any of them but seemed like a good place for children and families.
Continuing our search for food, there was another area with some very tiny food trucks... I mean very tiny
Nothing really stood out as unique but at least there are some non-hotou options I guess (aside from the conbinis)
Since all the hotou restaurants had lines and longer wait times, we ended up going a bit up the road to a popular cafe we've been wanting to try... for the longest time I thought it was called Cafe Zakka but that was just a description of what the place is/has haha
I remember thinking, I kind of like the look they're going for but if I had these things at our house it'd just look like garbage to me haha
The wait time was still about 20 minutes but there are a couple small shops attached to help kill some time.
The cafe serves sandwiches, cakes, pies, coffee... bit pricey but since this was the closest thing to a vacation in a while (and we were hungry) we just treated ourselves.
Looks nice but I worry about dust collecting up there haha
Well... I had to try the meat pie lol, not bad but like most cafes in Japan, too small...
Pretty nice quiche
There were three sandwich options so we each got something different.
One of their specialities is supposed to be the coffee so I was disappointed when they serve it in a small paper cup....
...and of course finishing off with some cheesecake!

Since we walked the whole waterfront and didn’t feel like doing any of the museums, we called it a day and headed back home after our late lunch.  

Day 3 - Ooishi Village Waterfront

Today was a shorter day since Marie’s mom had to catch the bus back to Yokohama in the afternoon.  We just kept it simple and walked around the Ooishi waterfront area again to enjoy the lake views.  Ooishi Park is the main area with some small vendors, a souvenir shop, Natural Living Center, and Hana Terrace mall.  There’s not a whole lot to do here but it still gets crowded during the fall season, mostly for the views.  This is the last stop on the sightseeing bus line but you can also get here using the local bus from Kawaguchiko Station.  Ooishi is much less developed than Fuji-Kawaguchiko next door but is still accessible which is one of the reasons why we like the location.  We still get views of Mt. Fuji from our house and the water is just a short walk away.  Ooishi does lack a good grocery store and reliable conbini but Fuji-Kawaguchiko is not so far away.

Near the Ooishi Park parking lot (large and free)
Roadside stand... in the late fall and winter they were selling grapes, now it's strawberries
Walking through the Hana Terrace
Hana Terrace is relatively new, so it's nice and clean with a variety of boutique shops and cafes... good place to visit if you're looking for a little more fancy souvenirs
Still nice views of Mt. Fuji
On the lakeside, flower garden heading back towards the Natural Living Center. There's a small plant shop on the left side here.
Natural Living Center and small cafe, they have your more typical tourist souvenirs in here
Nice place for social distancing and eating outdoors. This was on the second to last day of the holiday stretch so still some people around. Way more crowded in the fall when those green bushes are bright red and orange.
Something different for lunch today... we've tried a sandwich cafe here earlier so this time we just did pizza.
The pizza's were ok, however I noticed almost all pizza's in Japan are just not crispy enough for me, plus, one basil leaf per slice! come on man...
Walking off the pizza towards the end of the flower garden area is another good place for a view of Mt. Fuji.
Mt. Fuji towards the end of spring season

Day 4 - Fujimidaira Hike

With Marie’s mom having departed, we put some time into working around the house but still wanted to use our hiking gear we brought to check out some of the local area… all accessible right from our house.  For me at least, it’s so nice to have such great hiking, cycling, kayaking, fishing, and even golfing options so close… no apartment elevators, car turnstiles, city traffic… just exit your front door and go.  The original plan was to hike up to Mt. Kurodake summit at the top of our valley but after calculating how long that would take and how fat I’ve become we decided to scale it down a little bit haha.  We kept it short and simple and tackled the hillsides nearer to the lake instead… the peak we ended up hiking to was Fujimidaira.  

I always enjoy coming across these streetside stands... this one was almost empty though... someone even marked some of these on Google maps as grocery stores hahaha
A good portion of the valley is still farmlands
Looking back up into the valley. There are a lot of pensions and hotels in this valley... not sure how much business they get but I imagine the lack of jobs in the area people need their own way of making income... seems more Japanese stay in these places than foreign tourists which is fine by me! The highest peak up there is Kurodake which we opted not to hike this time.
If you take a left at the cherry tree farm you'll find the hiking trailhead... in this area so far, we've seen farms for tomatoes, blueberries, and cherry trees although I'm not sure which particular species these are...
The road just goes straight towards the hillside
Our plan was just to go up through Tenjin pass and over to Fujimidaira before turning off and heading back down towards the Ooishi Pension Village.
The beginning part is wide and impossible to get lost... it immediately turns into switchbacks going up.
Lot of trash near the beginning of the trail, bit disappointing
The hiking map shows some triails (dashed lines) heading towards the lake from this point but they must be old trails no longer accessible
Make a turn and keep heading up along the ridge
Resting at the first viewpoint
Just keep following the ridge trail until you find more trail signs... I wouldn't go by these old markers in the ground since they were throwing us off a bit.
Different routes, some head back down to the lake, others continue to a longer network of trails
Bird watching is hard lol, especially if they're not moving much.... got zero pictures despite carrying my long lens the whole time.
Lots of signs here which can be confusing... we just decided to turn off here and head back down to the right.
Heading down here takes you back to the Ooishi Pension Village area and bus stop (local bus).
From Fujimidaira back down to Ooishi Pension village is pretty steep downhill all the way, first switchbacks and then straightens out... I think it would've sucked coming up this way to start.
The last/first directional sign (depending on where you start from)we came across... from here it was a little difficult to find the trail head at the Pension Village... it had been very windy so you can see the trails are covered by a lot of debris... this might've contributed to the confusion a little...
Eventually we saw a green fence and then this stairway heading down to a road and sure enough it led us back to the start...
We overshot the actual trailhead by just a little as we popped up about 100 meters below the start. If you are hiking the same direction as us and you see the green fence on the right, head straight downhill before passing it.
The stairs we came down which signified the end of our hike
Walked back up the road just a littlto where it ended and the actual trailhead began.
We finally saw a bird! haha, and turns out this is the official bird of Fuji-Kawaguchiko... in english it'd be called a varied tit. Said to be very friendly and we'd find that out later on our next outing.
Where the hiking road meets the main pension village road
Abandoned house (and car) at the end of the lane
Not long after walking along the road when this fancy cat came running towards us from behind and rubbed up against our legs...
Had a collar so wasn't too worried about it being wild or anything...
It stayed with us for a good stretch, sometimes running ahead and then waiting for us to catch up, like it was leading us somewhere... another Japanese guy (seemed local) walked by and commented about how the cat was too fat lol
U.S. mail box hehe, and would hate to have these stairs as my property entrance
Lots of things still sitting out but looks like it hasn't been used in a very long time... such a very quiet area that could've been popular in a different time maybe... now seems not so much.
Old broken map of all the pension houses in this area
These houses had a pretty handy elevator system, probably for groceries hehe
Some houses are still nicely maintained at least, that's nice.
The cat finally said goodbye after heading towards one of the pension houses... it followed us for a long time to get here hehe, we figured that's why it's friendly with people.
Lower half of the pension village seemed to be more maintained and occupied, although most of the cars are probably just the owners and not really visitors, especially since the holidays were officially over at this point..
With all the western style pensions it really felt more like a California laketown or something rather than an old Japanese village... but I guess that's what the Japanese tourists like.
Not a fan of this site...
The Oishi Pension Village bus stop (local bus only)
So many pensions in this one area... I can't imagine the occupancy rates are very high... maybe a while ago this was more popular?
You can follow this road to get to another trailhead/hub that will take you up to Oishi pass and Mt. Kurodake if you like... that was the longer hike we decided not to do.
Another "grocery store" hehe.. this one was better stocked at least and the wood was just a little cheapeer (albeit bigger) than the homes stores we bought from earlier.
I think one reason why I like these so much is because it's totally the honor system... can't find that in many places these days.
Looking back up the road that leads to the tunnel taking you towards Fuefuki/Kofu on the other side of the mountain
Looking back at the cherry tree farm where we started the hike on the opposite side.
Still some new construction homes popping up in the valley, mostly western style so this village is not totally abandoned at least...
We walked home from the pension village and just to end the day on a humorous note I took a picture of our neighbors goat lol... poor thing can't each much on such a short leash though...

Day 5 - Saiko Wild Bird Forest Park

While looking for alternative hikes in the area Marie also found this bird sanctuary forest just one lake over (less than 20 minute drive).  Seemed like a good opportunity to use our binoculars and camera a little more since we didn’t see many birds on the last hike!

There were only a few cars there throughout the day, most people don't stay long or hike far but we spent a good chunk of the afternoon there just relaxing mostly. The sanctuary is on the farther end of Lake Saiko and even looks to be a part of the larger Aokigahara forest, seperated only by the highway.
Nice to have all this information on one board
Some useful signs in the parking lot
You can actually hike pretty far and even do a loop depending on how much time you have... there are even lava caves and bat caves at the other ends. We ended up walking from Point 23 counterclockwise to about point 16 and then turning around from there...
First thing you see near the entrance to the main building are envelopes of sunflower seeds you can feed the birds
Inside the main hall are a bunch of displays of local wildlife and some items for sale (coasters, bird whistles, bird houses, etc.)
One end of the first floor is also a classroom and the other end had a resting area with more things for sale
Some shirts and tote bags for sale along with maps for the trail
Luckily they had maps in english
This map gives approximate hiking times which weren't on the paper maps so I took a picture for future reference (although this doesn't take into account time spent staring up at birds hehe)
Second floor has more resting areas and a small gallery of photos
Nice of them to set these up for anyone to use
Back outside we walked around the open lawn area where they have some old fashioned huts
I never knew moles existed in Japan until finding identical mounds and tunnels at our house!
On a clear day you should be able to see Mt. Fuji from here but it was too cloudy when we got there
Looking back at the main building.
If you're looking at the front of the main building, the start of the nature trail starts in the back to the left
Fences are just a protection measure from wild animals
Heading into the forest
Definitely more birds here than on our last hike but still hard to see them!
Aside from a couple groups passing by the whole afternoon and distrubing the peace, we had the trail to ourselves. It was a little strange that it ran along the highway for the second half of our walk
We could finally capture some birds!
and this really gross tree pimple looking thing...
This was the most colorful bird of the day... hard to get any good pictures handheld with a long lens through all the leaves and branches, and they don't stay still for long!
This bird wins the award for most hoppy.
Overall, much better variety than the day before and if nothing else a nice easy walk in the forest
After a couple hours we reemerged back at the main lawn area... Mt. Fuji made a quick appearance so I could take a quick photo of the view from here
Marie still had the sunflower seeds from earlier so we just decided to hang out around the main building to feed them...
Same branch, different bird, eating one of the seeds
The birds are friendly... one of the workers was feeding the birds like this too.
They always pause shortly to look at you first, then take one seed and fly away.
They have more bird houses and a little pond directly behind the main building so there are more birds there... much easier than hiking and looking through the trees haha
Mr. chubby bird
Back ion the bench in front of the main building before leaving
Waiting, waiting, waiting
The lone bird in the front area

Well, that about sums up our recent “travels” hehe… can’t say we have anything else planned in the near future with the climate being what it is… hopefully Japan speeds up their vaccination efforts and can start easing restrictions for us sooner than next year.  Until then, it was nice to get out a little bit and dust the gear off a bit.  Stay safe!

One Comment

  1. Beautiful photos!!!
    Love this blog…especially the “roadside” konbini with honor systems!
    Glad you both could get out and enjoy the nature … nice to see both of you in the pictures too.
    Can’t wait to be there…take care!

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