Return to Oze National Park

by Brianin Fukushima, Gunma, Japanon Posted on

Jump Ahead:
Day 1 | Drive to Tokura, Hatomachi Toge Trailhead, Hike to Miharashi Campsite
Day 2 | Round trip hike from Miharashi to Lake Ozenuma
Final Day 3 | Hike out from Miharashi to Hatomachi Toge

Our second backpacking trip to Oze National Park!  I guess it’s safe to say this is our favorite all-around hiking/camping park so far.  Just like the first trip, we were only going for 3 days and 2 nights and our itinerary was pretty much identical to the first trip except we didn’t hike to Sanjo-no-taki this time.  Of course, it was a lot easier this time since we knew what to expect.  I was also excited to try out some new gear that I had just purchased…. sort of a tryout for longer hikes to workout all the quirks of my new kit.  

Some good links for info:
First Trip Journal
https://achikochitravel.com/2017/07/oze-national-park/
Official Website
https://www.oze-fnd.or.jp/en/
Tokura –> Hatomachi Toge Bus/Shared Taxi Info
https://kan-etsu.net/publics/index/43/&anchor_link=page43#page43
Oze Highlights
https://www.env.go.jp/en/nature/nps/park/oze/guide/view.html
English Hiking Map
https://www.oze-fnd.or.jp/DL/oze_map_e.jpg
General Info
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e7440.html

Day 1

The drive from Yokohama to Tokura was about 3-1/2 hours so we tried to leave a little earlier around 0600.  We stopped for some quick breakfast-to-go foods at Miyoshi rest stop after about an hour of driving along the ETC road.  

Miyoshi rest stop for toilet and breakfast
Many options here but we opted for something simpler
Good amount of shops inside
Some breakfast items to go

We made it to Tokura around 0930 and tried to park at the same lot (#2) as we did on the first trip but it was closed so we had to go to lot #1. I’m guessing they wanted to fill lot #1 (main lot) first and since the big summer rush of hikers had already gone there were plenty of spaces at lot #1.  The popular daylily season in Oze is typically late July so if anything we were catching the tail end of it already.  Parking in both lots is ¥1000/day.  From the lot, we purchased our bus tickets and got on the next bus to Hatomachi Toge trail head which ended up being completely packed and a bit uncomfortable with our huge packs.

It's a large lot but farther from the main road
Bus station at lot #1
Bus ticket machine, ¥980/person
Our bus ended up being full so we had to carry our packs on our lap which was a bit uncomfortable... thinking back, the shared taxis we caught before (looks like regular vans) would've been better since they let you put your packs in the back of the vehicle and they cost about the same too.
Just getting off the bus below the Hatomachi toge trail head area
Adjusted our packs and ready to go!
Short walk up to the trail head area

After we got to the trail head, we didn’t waste any time getting started.  We knew we could do our shopping there on the last day when we returned and we were anxious to get to our camp site so we could hopefully get a good spot.  

Beginning of the trail
The "before" picture
Someone got their own trekking poles now!
Just going at an easy pace
More downhill at the start then flattens out towards the marsh area
It's pretty flat the rest of the way once you hit this bridge
At Yamanohana Visitor Center area
Inside Yamanohana Visitor Center
Took a short break at Yamanohana where I was keeping a mindful eye on the bugs flying around everywhere. An older Japanese guy asked why I was wearing full length gaiters for this hike.... for me it wasn't so much the brush but more so the insect bites. My legs were like a buffet counter last time we came here and there was no way I was going to let that happen again.
Heading out into the marsh area, looking back at Mt. Shibutsu
Leaving Yamanohana Visitor Center area
Tons of dragonflies this time
When I think marsh I think dirty, stink, muddy, swampy water but here the water is so clean
First time seeing these red dragonflies. I believe they're called nannophya pygmaea, otherwise known as scarlet dwarfs and supposedly the smallest dragonfly in Japan
Don't fall in!
Friendly buggers
Looking towards Mt. Hiuchigatake
I read they replace the boards every 10 years or so and they were all in pretty good shape this trip... everything is well maintained in this park
Hard to see but the air was filled with hundreds of dragonflies here
We were definitely too late in the season for skunk cabbages and we hardly saw any daylilies at all this day... really hoping to see some lilies closer to Lake Ozenuma tomorrow.
Ryugu-jujiro Crossroad Rest House
Small shop at Ryugu-jujiro
Final section to Miharashi

We made it to our camp site at Miharashi just before 1500  and promptly checked-in at the camping office in the back of the grounds.  We ended up getting a pretty favorable spot considering a lot more people showed up later in the afternoon.  There was still quite a bit of daylight left even after setting up our area but we decided to just take it easy and enjoy the camping life instead of hiking off somewhere else.   I was hoping to practice some night photography (brought my tripod just for that purpose) but it was supposed to rain the first night.

Approaching Miharashi
Some different birds at the campgrounds
Just a fungi, mossy miniature cave in a log at our campsite
Phew! Made it... now time to unpack and set up camp

Some of the new gear I was trying out on this trip was the MSR Hubba Hubba NX2 tent, my Osprey Aether 85L pack, a Trekology Inflatable Pillow, North Face Furnace 20 deg sleeping bag, Sawyer Squeeze gravity bag, Sea to Summit long spork, Captain Stag camping table, UV Buff, Outdoor Research Rocky Mountain High gaitors, Injinji 2.0 line crew toe socks, Bedrock Cairn Sandals, and various instant food packs.  

If you’d like my review of all the equipment feel free to contact me but overall I was very happy with majority of the items, especially the Hubba Hubba and the Osprey pack.

Much more spacious Hubba Hubba NX2
All set and getting ready for dinner!
Should've brought something to hang the Sawyer gallon bag with... it's a little stiff and definitely not free standing so it's a little awkward to just leave anywhere
Trying some different brands of food on this trip
I'm not sure how people bring all kinds of meats, eggs, cooking things with them to this campground... these instant food bags are easy enough for just a short trip. I'm not sure that I would continue to bring the table on every hiking trip but for camping it can be nice to have... it's super light and was less than $10.
The long spork was working great for the taller/deeper food bags but cheesy foods stick too much to it and I cringe if I have to scrape the inside of the Jet boil cup with it. Perfect might have the same shape but made of plastic one like the Light My Fire sporks.

Day 2

It had rained overnight so everything was a little damp outside when we woke up.  The tent held up well and didn’t have any major issues with condensation dripping inside although the huge flies sure liked getting trapped on the ceiling.  The sleeping situation was also MUCH more comfortable this time as we had a slightly larger tent and we each had our own sleeping gear.  It was still a little chilly in the morning but no complaints this time hehe

Always bring too much food
Had a leftover bag from the last trip so we had to use it on this trip... I wouldn't drink this again... it's too bulky when you could just bring instant coffee packets instead.
This guy had the right idea... thinking of bringing my own line to hang things on next time.

After eating our instant breakfast and coffee, we grabbed our day packs and secured our camp site before heading out to Lake Ozenuma.  

The campground office
Helicopter drop-off
Fat and juicy
This was a new addition on this trip... last time we came to the lake it was just the burnt down foundations leftover from a previous fire. They've since made this nice resting house complete with a little snack window.
Toilet
The guy in the snack shop window seemed pretty friendly and was chatting with a lot of the hikers passing through... must be a nice retirement job for him I thought
Super hot already
Trying to dry off my shirt and pants already from all the sweat... I was also making some pretty impressive butt sweat angels everytime I got up haha
Lake Ozenuma
Bit of a rare find I was told... the Japanese word is supposedly Ginryoso (Monotropastrum humile). Also known as silver dragons or ghost mushrooms. It's interesting in that these plants can't perform photosynthesis (hence their whiteness) and instead rely on mycorrhizal fungi for its sugars and nutrients.
Walking counter-clockwise around Lake Ozenuma
Lot of fish in the water
Gotta be careful not to kick these guys too...
At Sanpei Shita
Small shop inside of Sanpei Shita rest house
Looking across the lake back at the first (new) rest house, continuing on from Sanpei Shita to Lake Ozenuma Visitor Center
Mt. Hiuchigatake
I don't think they wash those cups...
One of the buildings at the Lake Ozenuma Visitor Center area
Lake Ozenuma Visitor Center. They put out some telescopes pointing at Mt. Hiuchigatake summit where you could see people climbing up there
Other hikers enjoying the lake view
Finally more lilies! This was the area between Azami marsh and Oe Marsh coming from Ozenuma Visitor Center
Not as many as during the full season I'm sure but at least we got to see some. I was thinking that a lot of tour groups advertise things that you can see in Oze National Park but they don't say which part of the park you can see them in, and then for the short time they get to visit they won't be able to make it to that area of the park. So a lot of groups that started out on the marsh side expecting to see lilies didn't get to.
Groups going towards Oe Marsh
Some fish in the stream
Heading back to camp on the North side of the lake
Looks like some baby pine cones
Didn't get a picture of it but the large flies with black and yellow striped bodies were super aggresive... despite my efforts to cover up and not get bitten on this trip, those buggers bit me right through my arm sleeves and even left a blood spot there... aside from those two bites, nothing else got to me. I'll never understand how others can hike in short sleeves and shorts and not get a single bite.
Another ghost plant... very easy to miss! I read the season for these is usually short, like June to late July so I think we were extra lucky to see these in August
Back at the new lake rest house
Poor guy
I believe this is a form of Amanita parcivolvata but I wouldn't stake my life on it (or picking any other wild mushroom ehehe)... this is the power of Google!
Finally made it back to camp

We got back to Miharashi around 1500, in time to wander through the small shops and cafes in the main area.  Can’t remember exactly what time they stayed open until but I know some of them closed pretty early.  After walking around that area for a little while, we went back to our tent to grab our dinner and ate it up at the rest house area near the bathrooms.

Some other guest houses... I'm sure they have rooms in some of these buildings but I never really looked into it because I was more interested in camping. There are a lot of things available here though so you're not completely in the middle of nothing. It's as comfortable an area you can ask for when camping I guess.
Can't escape them
Still not so crowded for a Saturday night but again it wasn't exactly peak season... you can see my tent since it's the only red one. I would say majority of those tents were Montbell too.
Washed my shirt and pants and was trying to dry them as much as possible before the sun went down (that was a mistake)
Kind of a treat, believe it or not. Reminds me of when I was small, camping at the beach with family in Hawaii
These were probably the better of the instant foods we brought, just a simple rice packet and they don't gunk up the spork either

Luckily for me, the weather was looking better this night so I had the chance to use my tripod and practice taking some night photos (I didn’t bring it for nothing!).  My camera/lens combo isn’t exactly meant for night photography so I did as best I could… either way, it was a perfect night view even without taking photos (aside from some of the louder drunk teenagers wandering past us in the dark).  

We walked out into the dark using our headlights...
Wanted to get this picture with the split boardwalk and stars above but people eventually showed up and started making noise there
Best I could do at the time... Marie was patient enough to sit out there with me while I tried to get a good picture (and to enjoy the stars of course)
This is a more accurate representation of how dark it was... careful not to step off the boards
Just a goodnight shot with the new tent hehe

Final Day 3

Ahhh the bitter sweet last day…. we were leaving on a Sunday so we knew it would be kind of crowded hiking back out (and inevitably driving home too).  We didn’t get the earliest start and a lot of people packed up and left before us so we kind of just conceded the fact we’d have to deal with it and took our time eating our breakfast.  Washing my shirt and pants the night before ended up being a mistake because they weren’t the least bit dry when I woke up in the morning so I ended up wearing a cold wet shirt and my thin white sleeping pants for the entire morning.  By the time we had packed up and eaten, it was already around 0800 when we started the hike back out.  

Camp site was all packed up already, just trying to eat as much food as possible (too much)... of course, pack out all your own garbage
Setting her GPS watch as we were leaving (around 0800)
Same view as the night before when star gazing
Nice weather for the hike back out, just super hot and exposed walking through the marsh
I got so sweaty that my thin white sleeping pants basically became see-through halfway through the hike lol
Gotta give these guys credit... every few minutes we'd walk past one of these guys hauling some goods back to the various buildings/shops in the park. I even saw some Amazon packages in there.
Grandma and Granddaughter making memories together
Back at Yamanohana, taking a break before the uphill section back to Hatomachi Toge Trail Head
Finished! (around 1130)
Just super hot and sweaty
Had to get some ice cream to cool off... looks like I took a shower haha

The drive home took over 5 hours due to traffic (typical Sunday driving back through Tokyo)… needless to say I was pooped after hiking and driving that much.  We capped off the long weekend with a quick and easy dinner at Matsuya before finally making it home to enjoy a clear view of the moon over Mt. Fuji in the distance.

Hard to miss Skytree on the drive through Tokyo
Ahhh, can't go wrong at Matsuya, so easy, fast, and cheap but satisfying.
Woohoo, large size!
Ready to pass out after eating all that...

That’s all for now, till next time!

PinPrint

Post author

Written by

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *