Jump Ahead:
Day 1 | Arrival, Daimon Yokocho
Day 2 | Morning Market, Red Brick Warehouses, 1st Concrete Electricity Pole, Museum of Northern Peoples, Motomachi, Mt. Hakodate, Daimon Yokocho
Final Day 3 | Fort Goryokaku and Observatory, Departure

I was always (and still am) curious to explore more sides of Hokkaido other than just Sapporo and Hakodate was one of those cities I was more interested in, especially for its seafood. This was just a short, 3-day weekend trip but what made this extra special was that Marie and I were joining my Parents as part of their much longer self-guided tour of Northern Japan. We stayed just for the weekend and then my Parents continued on with their tour after we departed.  

Day 1

We decided to fly into Hakodate Airport rather than catch the much slower (relatively) Shinkansen from Tokyo.  We also wanted to match my Parents flights since they had booked separate from us much earlier.  Domestic flights in Japan are usually pretty easy and can often be cheaper and faster than the Shinkansen… I’m beginning to prefer them over longer Shinkansen trips (just depends on the destination).  Our flight left Haneda at 1245 and landed in Hakodate around 1405 so it was really just a quick shot there with barely enough time even for drink service.  

Staring over the countryside just prior to landing
Easy, quick flight
Not a terribly huge airport (as one might expect) but still checks all the boxes... I find smaller airports much easier to navigate at least and less stressful too
From the airport, I can't remember if we caught the bus or a taxi to Hakodate Station (wasn't taking notes or anything this trip)... anyway, it was less than 30 minutes away... the shuttle is just ¥450/person and a taxi would be about ¥3000. Fairly easy process since it was a smaller airport
Welcome to Hakodate!
We chose the same hotel as my Parents (they booked all their trip things earlier). Four Points by Sheraton, 2 nights, 2 adults, no meals, ¥17765 total. Pretty cheap all things considered and a great location right next to the train station for all our venturing too.
The hotel can be crowded since this really is a small city and there aren't that many large hotels like this one
Small room but just big enough for us on this short trip
Since it was kind of late to go out sightseeing already, we just walked around the station area looking for a good place to eat dinner. There wasn't much open near the market area (seems like many places close early or open later), this being a smaller city I guess, so we wandered East of the hotel based on a Google Maps search for restaurants
We found this little restaurant row, I believe it was called Daimon Yokocho
Small streets, but quite a few restaurants all serving slightly different foods (but still mostly all seafood).
Even they weren't open yet (not until 1700) but we decided to just hang around for a few more minutes when they did finally open

I believe the restaurant/izakaya we ended up picking just translates into “Club House” but I’ll try to pin it on a map below:

One of their better bottles of sake
Drinking with my Dad!
Table (Counter) service
When in Hokkaido!
Fatty salmon was so delicious too
Always need rice hehe
Here fishy fishy

After the surprisingly great dinner we just headed back to the hotel to unpack a little and rest a bit… since we were compressing this trip into just 2 days we had planned on doing a lot more the next day.

Day 2

The second day was really our only full day in the city.  We started out at the Morning Market right next to the hotel and then made our way on foot to the Red Brick Warehouses.  Near the Red Brick Warehouses there was also an amusing little tourist attraction? The very first concrete electricity pole in Japan haha.  We continued to the Museum of Northern Peoples on our way up the hill to Motomachi and Mt. Hakodate.  Finally, we headed back to Daimon Yokocho for dinner again but this time changing it up with a different restaurant.

View from our hotel, looking back at Hakodate Station
The morning market area is a mix of indoor and outdoor vendors spread out over a couple square blocks just South of Hakodate Station
You can finds all sorts of seafood here... even some things I had no clue about
One of the newer indoor market buildings
It wasn't terribly crowded and not overly touristy... I would say there were an equal number of Japanese tourists and Foreign tourists. One of the vendors thought my dad was from Taiwan or Okinawa since I believe they have direct flights to Hakodate and get a lot of visitors from there.
I don't even know..... lol
Bears and melons... typical Hokkaido hehe
You have to kind of just wander around and find these different little side streets and alleys with various shops
Catch your own squid too
Always enjoy some good seafood and interacting with the vendors hehe... overall, the morning market is probably the best place in the city to get your seafood fix and omiyage to take back home
The Red Brick Warehouses were less than 15 minutes away on foot so we followed the water to our next destination
Every time I see cranes I just think of work...
Another fish market/wholesale center almost to the Red Brick Warehouses
Made it to the Red Brick Warehouses
It's interesting to see the similarities between different port cities like Yokohama, Kobe, and now Hakodate... all with their own sort of warehouse areas, Motomachi streets, and viewpoints... I guess you can say I've been pretty tied to maritime communities for my entire adult life.
Almost like the girl with red slippers in Yokohama
Most of the warehouses have shops inside that run their entire length... you can find a lot of gift items in here too but not as much seafood... they are definitely more fancy on the insides than the outside
The dango just looked too good to pass up hehe
Pretty nice little waterfront area with good shopping if you have the time

My Dad had mentioned this one attraction that he came across in his research and sure enough it showed up on Google maps too haha… near the warehouses you can find Japan’s very first concrete electrical pole!  Just for kicks we walked about a block just to see it

There it is!
They even had a sign up for it explaining the history of it
It was about lunch time by now and we were feeling like eating something other than seafood just for a change of pace. We'd seen a lot of these Lucky Pierrot burger joints all over Hakodate so we figured why not give it a try. I never did see one anywhere else in Japan.
We decided to eat at the larger shop on the waterfront back by the warehouses
You can tell this town is not overly touristy when even a big chain shop like this only shows Japanese menus despite it being a Western style restaurant
ohhh yeah..... calorie bombs
Sloppy but pretty good!

After the big lunch, we followed the waterfront a little further towards Motomachi Park.  We ran into this little memorial for the old Higashihama Pier, supposedly the very first port of entry into Hokkaido after the Meiji restoration began:

https://www.hakobura.jp/db/db-view/2010/09/post-127.html

Remains of Higashihama Pier
Higashihama Pier
We kept walking until we hit this photogenic street leading up to Motomachi Park (the view is more famous from the top of the hill)...

Trying something different, we were curious enough to take a slight detour to this Museum of the Northern Peoples:

http://www.zaidan-hakodate.com/hoppominzoku/#sisetu

Entrance just off the main street
There are two floors to the museum and it was larger than I expected it to be
This museum did help me to gain perspective and a deeper appreciation for the area we were visiting.... I don't always take time for museums (I can be really picky about them I guess) but in this case I think it enhanced the trip for me personally
The collection was spread out over two floors and I found it to be interesting enough... I was always curious about the culture in Northern Japan as I've heard it's so very different from the rest of the country (thinking Alaska vs. the rest of the US). In fact, the reason they call this the Museum of the Northern Peoples is because it's not just about Ainu in Japan but also how they were spread out and separated throughout the entire region including Russia and Alaska.
Always liked these covers... and the rest of the outfits, tooling, weapons, and musical instruments too I guess hehe... I notice a lot of crossover in musical instruments and styles across countries by region which can be interesting it it's own right
After the short visit to the museum, back on the main road heading up to Motomachi Park
Perry Square and statue
A popular view from the top of the street
Motomachi Park overlooking the harbor
The former Hakodate Branch Office of Hokkaido Government
Just resting and taking in the views from the park
Walking through Motomachi area on our way to the Mt. Hakodate Ropeway
Very peaceful vibe up here... many historic and Western style buildings (what's with Foreigners always settling up in the hills?). Kind of feels like a port town you'd see in a Ghibli movie
Almost to the ropeway
Mt. Hakodate Ropeway
Ticket counter
View going up looking North
View going up looking South East
View looking up
Views from the top observatory deck
Perfect weather and perfect views! It seems like the night view is more popular but also more crowded.... this was more than good enough for us
I believe this was Mt. Yokotsu... looks challenging!
Looking back towards Fort Goryokaku and the tower
Hakodate Station
Red Brick Warehouses
Mt. Hakodate Ropeway

After taking some time up at the observation deck, we went back in the building where they have a pretty large gift shop.  Mostly your typical observation tower souvenirs and Hokkaido themed snacks.  It was pretty crowded so we didn’t shop long although I remember buying some butter flavored taffy (sounded good at the time).  After riding the ropeway back down the mountain, we walked over to the nearest street car stop (Jujigai Station) to head back to our hotel area.

Boarding and exiting are in the middle of the street... aside from buses and taxis this is the next most convenient way to get around Hakodate. The JR trains from Hakodate Station only go to other cities or towns farther away
They at least had easy to read signs in English
I should start a collection of manhole pictures...
For dinner we went back to Daimon Yokocho to try a different restaurant this time. Part of me just wanted to eat at the same place again but I try not to eat at the same places over and over again when on a trip.
This place was a more simple meal... we each got our own set and then some extras on the side. Was still pretty good but I think if I had to choose then the first night was better
Can never go wrong with these...

Sooo… a pretty long day with a good amount of walking… I feel like we got to see most of what the city has to offer or at least all the highlights, plus the weather was perfect.  There’s really not much else to do around town at night so we called it a day pretty early again and started packing for our check-out the next morning.  

Final Day 3

This was our final day in Hakodate and our flight back to Haneda wasn’t until 1935 so we still had time to go to Fort Goryokaku.  

We checked out of our room earlier and left our bigger bags with the hotel service before catching the street car again to Goryokaku Koen Mae.  
Still an old fashioned street car, works much like the bus
From the street car stop we just walked along the road until we got to Goryokaku Tower
Just across the street from the tower was a small ramen restaurant and since you should always eat ramen in Hokkaido we decided to have some for lunch.
oohhhh.... yum
Warm and delicious!
I usually need to have something on the side when I eat ramen... just completes the meal
After lunch we decided to go up to the observation deck in the tower first... they have a large gift shop on the first floor too
Elevators to go up
Pretty nice observation level with 360 views
Another day with great weather and great views... supposedly this is one of the best cherry blossom spots in all of Hokkaido but we were a little too early for that... maybe one more month and this picture would've been all pink
Looking back at Mt. Hakodate
See through floor window
Quite a few interesting historical displays up here too, outlining the significant role the Fort played in the beginning of the Meiji period
Hakodate (and this Fort) was one of the last strongholds of the Edo period and where the shogunate army took a last stand against the new Meiji government... there's a lot of history in this quiet little town
Little cafe up on the observation level
There was a nice little gelato shop after taking the elevator back down from the observation level
I think I got the black sesame flavored gelato
Ground floor cafe after exiting the elevators
Ample seating and a good place to take a break
Another manhole to add to the collection
From the tower we proceeded into the actual park area which was free to walk around...
The former magistrates office
We didn't walk around the entire fort but just enough to take in the unique scenery here...
Most of the trees were still dormant so there wasn't much color but it was still a unique place to visit and not like your typical Japanese castle grounds
A completely hollowed tree still producing
Admiring the stone work
Another look at Goryokaku Tower

Alas, it was time to head back to the hotel to pick up our bags and head to the airport.  My Parents were staying another night before continuing on with the rest of their trip through the Tohoku region so we had to say goodbye outside the hotel… my Dad even gave a very Japanese farewell and everything lol

We caught the bus back to the airport and checked-in for our flight
We still had some time to kill so we looked through all the gift shops very thoroughly
There's quite a bit of shops (and free samples) at the airport so fear not if you've yet to buy your omiyage!
Where else will you find this flavor of Pringles?
They also have more relaxing areas to take a break if you like
A small arcade area for the kids
Access to the rooftop to watch the planes go by
Sun setting on our trip
This was kind of interesting... they put phones so you can talk with people on the other side of the security checkpoint... many people were using it for last minute goodbyes
In terms of food at the airport, there wasn't much so we just got small things to hold us over for the time being
Just waiting at our gate now for the flight

Overall, a very nice weekend trip getting to share new experiences in Japan with my Parents and Marie.  It’s always a bonus when my parents can visit me in Japan.  I think the city had a much smaller feeling to it than I previously expected but that gave us just about the right amount of time there to leave feeling fully satisfied.   Anyway, another great trip in the books!

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