Jump ahead:
Day 1 | Drive to Kofu, Kofu
Day 2 | Train to Katsunuma, Katsunuma Wineries
Final Day 3 | Drive to Shosenkyo, Shosenkyo and Ropeway, Drive to Yokohama
Took an extra day off to enjoy a 3-day weekend in Yamanashi prefecture, specifically Kofu, Katsunuma, and Shosenkyo. The main reason for going was to check out the “Napa Valley” of Japan in Katsunuma. To compare the two places, including the wine, is a pretty far stretch in my opinion… the wine is different in Katsunuma as they lean heavily on Koshu grapes (whites), which hasn’t necessarily been my favorite in Japan so far but I was willing to try more anyway. We decided to stay in the town of Kofu because it seemed most centrally located, had the most accommodations available, and still had train access to Katsunuma (can’t drink if I have to drive). Also, since the leaves were beginning to change colors, we thought Shosenkyo would be the best place in the area to take in the awesome scenery.
Ultimately, it was setting up to be a nice relaxing getaway from the city…. good food, a little bit of wine, and some nice autumn scenery.
Day 1 - Kofu
Left Yokohama at 1000 on our drive to Kofu. Arrived at the Dormy Inn by 1400… they had a confusing garage system but Marie helped figure it out with the front desk. Parking was only ¥800/night, paid cash at check-in.
After leaving our bags at the hotel, we walked to Kofu castle park (but there was no castle, only concert going on).
Then went to Kofu station to shop and eat. First time eating at Lotteria, double cheeseburger with fries in bag. Very greasy, peppery burger, but not bad… don’t have to eat again.
Then we walked across to the other side of the train station to some charming little wine and gift shops… it wasn’t very big but it was one of the nicer things to do around the station.
Walked back through Kofu station where there were students asking for donations every time at every exit… not even offering cookies, just a give me money box. Went back to the hotel, checked-in, got our key, got stuff out of the car, and then finally got to the room to relax until 1800.
There was a Kofu Food Village that was highly recommended on a food brochure but when we got there it was underwhelming so instead we went back to the shopping arcade nearby and ate hotou… better than last time we had, nice small restaurant.
For dessert we wanted to find the shingen mochi ice cream but both 7-Eleven and Family Mart didn’t have so we got regular ice cream and ate it with a cheese tart we brought from home. 2000, called it a night because not much else to do in town.
Day 2 - Katsunuma Wine Country
Took the 0840 hotel shuttle to Kofu station, then a train to Katsunuma Station (25 minutes, ¥410 yen, only IC card reader, no ticket taker). There were bicycle rentals outside of the station for about ¥500 but can’t rent if you plan on drinking wine. There’s also a bus stop there but we wanted to walk instead. 0950, stopped for pastries along the way at Chateau Katsunuma. While walking, learned how to whistle (sort of).
First winery we really wanted to stop at was Ikeda Winery… a very small family-run place with a nice dog. Didn’t do a tasting here after all (¥500)… just stopped in to take a look.
http://www.katsunuma.ne.jp/~ikedawinery/index.html
Second winery, Katsunuma Winery (Jozo?), we stopped at was a little fancier, ¥1500 (¥500 for vending card and actually ¥1000 credit). Nice sitting area in the back overlooking the grapes to the sound of a small stream flowing beneath.
http://www.katsunuma-winery.com/
Third, Soryu Winery, free tastings… everything was a bit sour which I’m guessing is just how the Koshu grape is supposed to be. Not my favorite wines all day but maybe someone with a more refined taste might enjoy them more.
http://www.wine.or.jp/soryu/
At 1230 we finally arrived at Chateau Mercian, Japan’s first winery and most popular winery here in Katsunuma. Very nice grounds… did a three wine tasting set and I actually liked the Chardonnay (only non-sour one today) and I hardly ever like white wines… ¥1000 for the three tasting set. Lunch options weren’t so good for us so we walked a little bit more down the road to a different restaurant.
http://chateaumercian.com/
Stopped for lunch at Chânmoris around 1300, just a little down the road from Chateau Mercian. We ordered some Yamanashi chicken, cooked two different ways. ¥4300 total. Included all you can eat soup and salad bar, complete with chocolate fountain. Not bad overall. Pretty full and sleepy after lunch.
http://www.chanmoris.jp/
1420, Haramo Winery, free tastings at the bar downstairs. Everything sour, sour, sour. Nice old doggie near the bar.
http://www.haramo.com/
Last stop for the day was at Budo no Oka, up on the hilltop, from about 1500-1540. Did the ¥1100 tasting with the souvenir tin. Turns out you can try wines from most of the wineries we visited earlier in the day but it will be their cheaper offerings… to get the premium stuff you’ll still have to visit the actual wineries. The selection in the cave was pretty extensive and it was all you can drink (dangerous). Better to see the local winery anyway but if you don’t have the time then this will probably cover most people’s needs (and it’s closer to the train station). Bought one bottle of wine… the taste was not bad but the bottle was nice hehe.
http://budounooka.com/
Caught the 1609 train back to Kofu. Arrived back in Kofu at 1641…. just in time to get some ice cream and omiyage hehe. Shingen ice cream is expensive but so good… there were many different types at one of the stores in Kofu station but we both agreed the red cup was/is still our favorite one.
Final Day 3 - Shosenkyo
Checked out of the hotel at 1030. Drove over to Shonsenkyo parking area (free) and arrived at 1100. The one-way road going up was open to cars (closed on weekends in season though) but we wanted to walk and enjoy the scenery at a more gradual pace. Nice weather, didn’t need my jacket. Local shop owners near the parking lot were nice enough to give maps out too.
Made it to the end of the car road at 1225. First sign of some houses where people live. Some small shops there too but nothing really worth looking at for us. Good size parking lot here as well.
1250, stopped for lunch at a small restaurant. Really nice view looking up the river between the rocks. Cool cat just chillin there too. Ate hotou and soba again, though had to wait a little longer for mine (think the lady gave mine away to another family first). 1530, finished eating lunch and continued walking on through the rock tunnel.
1420, finally made it to the ropeway after passing the waterfall area and also a short ice cream break near the souvenir shops/cafes (shingen mochi ice cream again, though maybe it was old ones? Different texture). Ropeway was ¥1200 roundtrip… little pricey I thought. Didn’t really know what to expect at the top of the ropeway, just thought it was supposed to be nice.
Was surprised when we got to the top as there was a perfectly clear view of Mt. Fuji awaiting our arrival.
After walking around a little bit at the top, we ate some yomogi-yaki kind of dango (¥350) while waiting for the return ride down the ropeway, very good and warm.
1500, went back down the ropeway. Checked the bus schedule but it wasn’t going to come for another 40 minutes so we just decided to walk back down to where we left the car (all downhill). Ended up being a good idea because we made it back by 1620, taking almost exactly an hour to get back to the car.
