Day 4
Slept in a little, woke up at 0630. Breakfast was same buffet but good. Lots of fruit and good, strong coffee.
This morning it was more crowded than usual outside the hotel. The driver said the owner of the hotel is a high ranking government official and they probably had some kind of meeting that day. It was about a 30 minute drive from the hotel to the boat ticket office (paid $30 for my ticket) and another 15 minutes on a dirt road through rice fields to the boat starting area. The driver said the tour group (Happy Angkor) owns lots of Lexus which they get for about $12K used. Thankful for that because catching a tuk tuk through the dirt roads would’ve been super dusty… which now explains why they were giving out masks at the boat ticket office earlier (again good thing I was in a car). I was especially looking forward to this day because it would be my only sort of day trip away from all the crowds and a nice break from seeing so many temples.
Once we got to where the boats were, I had to wait a little while for the guide to find a boat driver. Once that happened we took off with just the three of us to start. Passing by the stilt houses at Kampong Phluk was very impressive to me… it was also amazing how the water levels could change so much between seasons there. Over 2000 houses make up the village and they even have a school too. Slowly passing by you might witness children making doodoo in the water, a lot of shrimp fishing nets/traps, and the tall mangrove forest (which are protected and provide protection). On the back side of the village we picked up a lady with vegetables on the way to the floating restaurant (she worked there I guess). This was, by the way, the sketchiest boat I’ve ever been on (complete with a rope steering system).
The floating restaurant wasn’t so big… with a draft of maybe only 1-1.5m. I wouldn’t have considered this a floating village at all… more just a couple barges out in the middle of the lake. There are supposedly larger floating villages in other areas of the lake. One of them is at Chong Khneas but according to our guide, they are more Vietnamese, not friendly and most pushy with sales so the tour company I was with doesn’t do business there… no choice but to just go with what they were telling me at the time I guess. My tour guide was still feeling sick today and mentioned that the public pharmacies give too much medicine… not good for stomach, even if just a common cold so they can show a bigger budget and get more money. Sounds familiar. There was no rush and I was literally the only person at this floating restaurant so we took a break and ordered some food. I got a half order crocodile meat dish ($5) which they recommended I try… it was good and spicy, looks like pork, but a little more rubbery in texture. A canned beer was just $1.50. My tour guide ate a little but didn’t finish his fried rice… I basically sat there watching the two dogs on the barge and writing my notes while the guide took a nap in a hammock. At this point I could only go with the flow…
On the ride back from the floating restaurant, my tour guide gave me the option of walking on land back through the stilt village or staying on the little boat… I chose to walk through the stilt village for about 20 minutes and then the boat picked me up on the other end. Took note of all the emptiness, dryness, naked babies, hammocks, dried fish, electricity, etc. As I walked through the village, even for that little while, I saw some families playing with their babies, enjoying life… and I thought to myself how there’s a million different ways we can be happy in each of our own lives… it doesn’t take much. To finish up the boat ride, we started having engine problems and the exhaust was smoking but we managed to finish just in time. My guide recommended tipping the boat driver so I gave just a few bucks (ugh)… we were back at the car by 1215.
On the drive back from the boat ride, we stopped at a small cluster of temples called the Rolous Group. These were smaller, older temples from around 800-900AD. The temples in this group that we stopped at were Lolei, Preah Ko, and Bakong. To be honest, at this point it was hard to stay interested in more temples, especially these smaller ones. The only things I had in my notes were that most temple doors face East and you’re supposed to sleep with your head to the East… sometimes North and South but never West (West is only the dead).
Once back in town we stopped at Artisan d’Angkor market where their own guide takes you on a short 15-20 minute walk through showing how local hand crafts are made.. it was quite impressive. They have a shop after the tour of course but are not pushy about it. Their guide leaves before you enter the shop and I guess tips are expected but I didn’t expect it (no warning) so I figured the amount I paid in the shop was enough support. Donation boxes were everywhere here but support comes from so many places. Everything online says tips are not expected/compulsory but you get a sense of tips being expected or at least a little disappointment if not given. It’s those little hesitations before they leave that really make you feel uncomfortable. Even the tour guide and driver (but mostly the guide) did it. Anyway, I bought some more pricey souvenirs but I justified it by thinking they should at least be authentic. I asked their tour guide about all the old market products… he said the vendors there are private families/businesses and most products are fake/imported. At least Artisan d’Angkor seems well supported and supports others as well so I felt comfortable buying here.
Finally made it back to the hotel where it was time to say bye to my tour guide. Took a picture with him and the driver and paid the tour fee ($231) plus tip. Showered and rested in the room for a bit. The driver had to take me to one more place before I’d say bye to him, which was the Apsara dinner show… departure at 1830.
The driver was on time picking me up for the dinner show, but of all times for this to happen, the car broke down in the middle of a big round-about. By some huge stroke of luck, the driver happened to know the policeman (who was already there guiding traffic) so we jumped on the policeman’s motorbike (with the police helmet and everything) and he gets me to the hotel in 5 minutes with still some time to spare. Interesting last ride anyway hehe… justification or karma for my tip? Anyway, I didn’t know where it was going to be at but I ended up at Somadevi Angkor Hotel. The program was a buffet style show, started eating at 1900 with the show going from 1930-2030. After the show they let you take pictures with the dancers if you want. The food was just ok. Actually, just like my hotel’s buffet except I think the difference in price is justified. Outdoor (hot outside) pool side dinner and show for $18. $10 more for two drinks. The flashy Christmas lights kind of take away from the performance (by the way what’s up with all the tacky colored lights in limestone caves?) but I think I got what I wanted/expected out of it. I think it’s safe to say you get what you pay for with these shows… I guess comparable to any luau program you’d find back home.
After the dinner I decided to try a lime shake from one of the street carts ($1), couldn’t tell if the water is clean. Really just fruit, a LOT of sugar, condensed milk, ice, water, malt/milk powder, and leftover from previous order haha (at least rinse out the blender container?). Then I caught another tuk tuk ($3) back to the hotel.
Side note: Tried checking into my flight online, but it was pointless. They charge $7 just to select a seat 48 hrs prior and they try automatic add-ons so you have to uncheck boxes instead of check them. Budget airlines can be such a scam.
*Mosquito bite, right elbow 2/25
***RANT***
So again, tipping, not really comfortable, and I think ethically is a very slippery slope. Where to draw the line? Just rather not have tipping to begin with. With tipping, it’s a no-win situation. Overall thought on the tour services was just so-so… not worthy of the 5-star rating they ask you to leave for them on Trip Advisor. The driver was nice, quick, attentive, took care to drive carefully, towel/water each time, punctual. The guide seemed a little lazy overall, not groomed well. Had an excuse each day, hangover first day, leg accident second day, sick on the third day. Didn’t follow me everywhere, especially where stairs were involved.. always asking if I needed/wanted to go to places already on the pre-advertised itinerary… didn’t know itinerary well all the time. Have nothing to compare my experience to but other guides seemed to be more professional (at least climbed stairs and better groomed). So I felt a small tip was justified, plus I was already paying for a group of 3 people so more expensive for me and I must’ve been an easy customer for them. I hate the thought that if I don’t tip, I’m still an ass because my life is supposedly so much better and whatnot even with mediocre service and it being “not expected”. Then there’s other people who tip without any second thoughts about it just because it’s the “western way” thereby making it more and more expected by the service providers. This is why I don’t like tipping system. Compared with service in Japan with no tips to “donations” in Cambodia and high tips in America for the “entitled” ones who expect it automatically… Just simply better ways to support people really. I’m not quite Mr. Pink from Reservoir Dogs but pretty close to it…
***END RANT***
Day 5
Hotel breakfast was the same again… Today I was just on my own so I rested in the room until about 1100. Even though this was my last full day, the previous days just kind of took a lot out of me.
I was considering going to the Angkor National Museum but decided to just go to the old (day) market instead… it was kind of history overload at this point already. Tuk tuk was only $2 this time. Lots of restaurants around pub street, 50 cent beers were a good deal I guess. Stopped at Sister Srey for a banana shake ($3.25), then over to King’s Road and the Made in Cambodia Market. There really wasn’t much to these markets, all selling the same things basically. The Made in Cambodia market was just small booths mostly… I didn’t stay long at all.
Went back through the old market. Everything you can think of is jammed in there… meats, fish, produce, fruits, nuts, toys, electronics, hair salons, jewelry, clothing, food court. I was able to get info on the good peanuts I had at lunch on Day 1 of the tour hehe. The good peanut mix consisted of salt, chili, garlic, lemongrass, and lime leaf. After less than 3 hours, I kind of seen everything in the old market area.
At 1330, I stopped at Temple for a caramel macchiato frappe ($3.75). Had to keep find ways of cooling off… too hot outside. 50 cent beer can’t beat that. Went back to buy the good peanuts from the helpful vendor. Vendor said $6 for one bag, then pointed to another bag which was the same size but had a different weight label. Then he said $3 for that one but 2 for $5. Didn’t make sense though one sticker said 250g and one said 1000g (they were both the same weight). In the end I got 2 bags for $5.
Got another tuk tuk ride back to hotel to rest. Recently heard they’ll be disappearing soon… so I was questioning to myself if tuk tuks are ethical? The driver wasn’t too happy about the $2 ride but that’s what the first driver charged.
For dinner, I decided to go back out via tuk tuk to the old market area again ($2). Khmer Kitchen Restaurant – mango shake, fried spring roll, fish amok. Taste overall was just ok. Spring roll filling was very blended with a softer texture… tastes little different than what I’m used to. Very fast service here despite the crowd. The mango shake was great. Still strange seeing all the tourists speaking English and using USD. Total was $9.50 for dinner.
After dinner I just walked around town for a little while… this area is much more lively at night. Walked home instead of the tuk tuk, just because it was the last night and I wanted to go slow. Stopped at a grocery store near the hotel to buy a beer and water ($2) for the night and then confirmed my airport shuttle on the way in to the hotel.
Final Day 6
Last breakfast at the hotel and checked-out at 0845. The hotel checks your room before letting you leave… strange? The car ride to the airport was about 25 minutes. Driver gave that look for tip again… I guess many tourists just do without thinking so now it seems more expected. Of course I didn’t encourage it though I’m sure it will become a more normal thing in the future, despite everything saying it’s non-compulsory.
The airport departure terminal was relatively small. The airlines gave me an exit row seat for “free”… they normally charge $30 but it’s all BS to me anyway. At least I got the 2nd boarding pass too so I didn’t have to go through immigration/customs again in Hong Kong (or so I thought). They make you walk through (literally) the duty free shop to get to the gates. They had some Artisan d’Angkor stuff in there if you didn’t get a chance to buy already and the prices were the same as the original shop too. Security again looked at my blunted grooming scissors but ultimately said they’re ok. Same as what happened going through Manila. Passed the test I guess but I think they’re not worth the hassle anyway. Airport snack prices were high in the gate area. Damn people without travel etiquette, lining up early, not following boarding process, too many carry-ons, standing up during take-off, loud phones, putting window shades down, keeping bags out in emergency aisles… all that and the airlines does nothing. Budget airlines…. not to mention a late take-off at 1210.
Also had a pretty bad transfer at Hong Kong. Had to walk across the whole damn airport to get to the next gate and did have to go through security again. My theory is that these budget airlines also get the worse gate assignments. Had to throw away my water and they questioned the blunt scissors again. Really not worth bringing, even if they’re allowed. Customs people were also questioning random people right off the plane, rudely asking where I’m from and other open-ended, vague questions. They also sprayed “cleaner” on the plane before landing in Hong Kong – what the hell? This was the first time it happened on my flight, but I guess after researching it’s more common than I thought. I even asked the staff just what exactly it was but they only tell you it’s “cleaner”… geez.
Ahh well.. that’s all for my Cambodia trip… good to be back home!