Jump Ahead:
Day 1 | Kii-Tanabe & Takijiri-oji
Day 2 | Hiking Takijiri-oji to Chikatsuyu
If you like hiking, nature, mountains, valleys, rivers, shrines, mysticism, history, solitude, and a sense of accomplishment, then it’d be hard to find anywhere better than the ancient Kumano Kodo routes in Japan. The more I researched, and the more pictures I viewed, the more I just had to go. It took some extensive research and planning… and things still didn’t go all as planned…. but it will remain one of my most memorable experiences in Japan. Even now the sense of allure remains… The first relatable movies that come to mind would be The Last Samurai, Dances with Wolves, and Legends of the Fall… minus all the war and big bear
Most of what you’d need to know can be found on the link below.. my trip would not have been possible without it:
http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo/
Day 1 - Kii-Tanabe & Takijiri
To get to Kii-Tanabe, I caught the Shinkansen Nozomi line to Osaka and then the Limited Express Kurushio train. About five and a half hours of travel from my front door and ¥17240.
Starting weights – Me (174lb), pack w/o water (~25lb), w/ water (28.3lb)
On the way to Tanabe, I passed by the same road near Wakayama & bridge that I rode my bike on during the Japan tour. It’s a strange feeling to revisit a place and have that sort of realization hit you… filled with memories of the past and the wonder of being somewhere again that you weren’t sure you’d return to.. almost like a recurring dream, familiar but not.
Right off the bat, I noticed many signs in English near the station in Tanabe. The Visitor Center at Kii-Tanabe station had a lot of information, many brochures in different languages, and a nice bathroom. One of the more interesting things I noticed was a stamp book. Those who hike the Kumano Kodo trail can collect stamps along the way as proof that you’ve completed the pilgrimage. If you were to also complete the Way of St. James (Camino de Santiago), you could certify as a Dual Pilgrim. As far as I could find, these are the only two designated UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage routes.
More info here:
http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/world-heritage/dual-pilgrim/
The pilgrimage center at the trailhead was going to be closed at the time I’d be there the next morning, and since I had some extra time today, I decided to catch the bus and check it out. Thought maybe I could also scope out the area and get a feel for tomorrow’s beginning. Only downside was that the bus was a little expensive at ¥960 each way and takes about 35-40 minutes. In hindsight, there wasn’t much for me to see or buy at the place to warrant the extra trip but could be a good stop for last minute hiking items if you forgot anything. In any case, it helped set the mood at least for the soon to be epic trip!
Finally got checked-in to Aoi Plaza Hotel (¥4900/night). The host did not speak any english and we had a hard time discussing the next morning breakfast bento situation. Very old place. Room was on the 4th floor but room numbers were in the 500 series…?
Spent the later half of the afternoon just exploring Tanabe city and some of the famous people associated with the place. At Kozan-ji, I visited Ueshiba Morihei & Minakata Kumagusu gravesites (lots of river crabs and mosquitos there too). I hadn’t known of Minakata Kumagusu prior to visiting the city, but there were enough signs around with the name to pique my interest so I did a quick google search. Of course aikido has played a huge part in my life so there was significance for me here but learning about Kumagusu was a nice bonus. Since I was just wandering around town, I passed by the Ueshiba former residence & statue also.
Walking back up the main street to the hotel, seems like the most bakeries ever in one town. There’s also a restaurant/entertainment district near the station. I just decided to pick up some food from the grocery store and then headed back to the hotel room to prepare for the long day ahead.
Day 2 - Takijiri to Chikatsuyu
When checking out, my breakfast bento (correct order) was waiting for me at 0630 as hoped. Caught the 0635 bus to Takijiri again for my official start. Ate my breakfast bento while watching the older people clean the shrine area. After reviewing my plans and resting a little while, got started on my journey at about 0740.
Not too far from the start, you’ll come across Tainai Kuguri. Didn’t want to crawl through for a “test of faith” as they say and for pregnant women supposedly passage grants an easy delivery… didn’t feel like squeezing myself through though with my pack on.
Also nearby is Chichi-iwa, rock where the story goes – a couple had a baby, abandoned said baby under the rock where wolf gave it milk, parents came back from their pilgrimage and picked up the baby again.
And as I wrote in my notes, by this time I was ready to die already from the constant uphill.
As I was walking, the strong spider webs could be heard rubbing on my hat. Lots of butterflies, moths, long tail lizards, spiders, weird bugs I never seen before.
Extra long break at Takahara Kiri-no-Sato rest area to dry shirt and rest. Most sweat ever, dizzy already and tired. Takahara is known as the “Village in the Mist” as the entire lower valley is often covered by clouds. Unfortunately, today was not one of those days.
Starting again, steep hill out of village, and constant uphill to Daimon-oji.
Took a short snack break at Jujo-oji. Decided later that the three moon viewing point wasn’t worth it. Legs already threatening to cramp with every step.
Good nice river crossings at the end. Started feeling the blisters within last 30 min of hike… so hot, that the sweat dripping down my legs got my socks all soaked… by then game over already.
Came across a small tour group of old women walking in dresses… and here I am, loner guy, sweaty, tired, big pack on… seems like many people catch the bus to certain areas and do small day hikes. Just a different way to enjoy the different sections of routes I suppose… seems like this group came to see the Gyuba-doji statue since the bus stop was nearby. Got to see some of my river crab friends again too.
Made it to Chikatsuyu-oji by 1500… very tired and hot outside. After getting my stamp there and resting for a little while, continued up the road along the river to find my bed for the night. Minshuku Chikatsuyu great service, friendly, nice setting on river, funny host/cook, get lot of honeymoon couples apparently, Irish couple eating next to me, good healthy meal. Seems like can pay just to use the bath house as there were a couple of motorcyclists passing through the village who I had to wait for to finish. Hosts were concerned about my distance tomorrow… which made me worry. Ideally, I would’ve like to finish near Tsugizakura-oji to make the second day shorter but no accomodations there when I was planning.
More to follow!