Solo Tour of Japan & Shimanami Kaido Event Final Part 4

by Brianin Aichi, Ehime, Hiroshima, Japan, Kagawa, Kanagawa, Mie, Nara, Osaka, Shizuoka, Tokushima, Wakayamaon Posted on

Day 7 - Naruto to Matsuyama

Option 1: Ride 100%, leave 4am (dark), finish 6pm (dark), about 200km (125 miles), wet/rain, unknown elevation, mountains for sure.

Option 2: Ride 50%/Train 50%, ride 4am (darkness) until about 12pm, 70 miles/112km, wet/rain, unknown elevation, then local or express train and reach Matsuyama about 410pm.

Option 3: Ride 5%/Train 95%, ride 5am (dark) 5 mi/8km to train station, stay dry, local/express train reach Matsuyama before noon.

After heavily debating with myself for the previous day or two, I decide to cancel my original plans of riding from Naruto to Matsuyama (the last real day of the solo touring part of the trip). I was actually always afraid of this day even from planning stages of the trip because of the length and unknown elevations, and after weighing all my thoughts I decided to catch the train (after riding a short ways to get there). The potential loss here being nice views riding through the long valley for the first half of the day. After judging my condition and experience so far, I think I made the best decision given the circumstances and still don't regret it. Woke up early at about 4am and had some left over pastries and coffee for breakfast.

The very short morning ride to Naruto station in the dark.

Rode in the dark a bit to avoid the rain early in the morning and managed to get on the first train out of Naruto station.
Primarily students on the train. Very small stations had me worried about being able to transfer and buy the right tickets but just went with it and hoped for the best. Luckily Naruto station had a good ticket machine despite being so small a station.
At least I got some practice packing my bike again. At one point, immediately after turning off the camera I spilled coffee all over myself and the bike waiting for the train.... heh
At the very small transfer station, Ikenotani
I guess Shikoku is like one big countryside, at least it seemed... this is a major transfer station for the express trains...
The conductor was nice about it though and repeatedly tried to tell me (in nihongo) which track to stand on so I wouldn't jump on the wrong one.
Standing room only since I didn't get a reserved seat. Good view in the first car though. Noticed the trees in the mountain have not really begun changing colors yet so I continued to find reasons to justify my train ride vice riding hehe
Stopped in Takamatsu which thankfully was a bigger station for transferring to the next express train. Decided to take my time here and bought separate tickets so I could sit down and eat something proper.
The consolation for the (supposedly) nice valley views was getting to eat some sanuki udon. Biggest egg ever. Long hand cut noodles. Juicy inari... all for ¥720.
Had to walk with all my stuff a little away from the train station but it was definitely worth it. One old lady doing everything herself and the food was soooo good.
Back on the final train to Matsuyama. Left my bike in the aisle (out of the way) but got a seat this time in the non-reserved car. Still figuring out the whole reserved vs. non-reserved options. Some trains if you buy non-reserved your're pretty much guaranteed standing but other trains have non-reserved cars to sit in which, I guess depending on timing, are never full so you get a seat anyway. Still think it's better to buy these tickets separately rather than using IC card.
Still had some sweet potato snacks from Naruto
Arrived at Matsuyama station finally at about 1210pm... assembled my bike to ride to the hotel but it started raining again a good amount and got soaked anyway.
Got to hotel at about 1245pm but couldn't check into the room until 3pm so while still wet, walked around some of the popular shopping streets here.
Probably the biggest shopping street in the city
Seemed to have many smaller booths/activities in the center... good to have that local feeling around here
Another fairly large shopping street in the area
Bought some tape and paper towels to clean up my bike and fix the handlebar grips... chain was actually rusting a little bit, maybe from leaving my bike outside Naruto hotel at the beach.
This just looked too good to pass up...
Bought one for the road
Stopped to get some coffee and kill some time
Still had time so I decided to knock off Matsuyama castle from the list already and save time from the next day
Best way up is the cable car (chair lift was closed at the time going up due to rain)
Looking back at the chair lifts
Ropeway cablecar
The castle is on a hill top which means there's a little bit of uphill walking even after the lift
Being on top of the hill, many nice views though
Mostly Chinese tourists here...
Just a great castle layout, nice views all around
Inside feels very old and you also have to navigate up/down these very steep staircases to get to each floor
Just some swords on display
Views at the top were some of the best
Just really enjoy it when the clouds are in the mountains like that
I would put this castle in my top 3 so far, which is interesting to me because I didn't even expect much of this area prior to this whole trip becoming an idea in my head. Never really know what to expect I guess. Just cool layout, elevated on a hill, awesome views 360 deg
Looking at the mountains/weather I would've had to ride through if I didn't catch the train. Mountains were much bigger than I thought just one day prior.
Just interesting to think that if I hadn't signed up for the bike event I might've kept assuming there was nothing to do or see on Shikoku but after researching and coming here it's really just great. I really enjoy this side of Japan much more than the daily life or big city Tokyo lifestyle.
Just beautiful views 360 degrees
Chair lifts were operating again since the rain stopped so took one going back down the hill
Main street going to/from the castle ropeway entrance. Made it back to the hotel around 415pm and they had already put my bags in the room from when I first arrived. Did my daily ritual of washing/hanging clothes and then went out to find dinner... relieved at the thought of finally making it to my final destination for the trip.
My comfort food. Was just ok, and I was only one in the restaurant.

Day 8 - Imabari and Matsuyama

Breakfast in the hotel is such a welcome treat at this point
Even if it is meatballs again eheheh
The little omelets with meat inside were good though. The fish is just too much work so early in the morning, having to pick out bones and whatnot. Threw some clothes in the dryer again while I was eating but still not dry...
My bicycle parking. Cleaned it as best I could but really needs a good scrub at home later.
Walking back to Matsuyama station in the morning. Had to catch the train to Imabari to check-in for Sunday's main event.
Local trains here are only one car I guess? hehe... Shikoku has a real country feel to it. Even ticket system is different here. Only one boarding line, no IC cards or ticket gates, conductor takes ticket as you leave... all manual system.
Imabari Station. Waited for the shuttle bus inside of Lawsons... realizing just how comfortable I was in convenience stores at this point... what a strange realization.
Caught the shuttle bus to the registration event location
Long week, and finally getting excited again for the event having finally made it here with only one day left
Packet pick-up with foreign language support volunteers (very helpful). Back when I did the Yokohama marathon, the volunteers all had really nice jackets and I couldn't find out how to buy one. This time, the volunteers had really nice vests and I wanted to buy one again but after talking with a volunteer they said they don't get to keep them either and have to return them after the event.... booo
Small bike track for the kids
Local mascots... the orange mikan (orange) and dark green mikan are the Ehime prefecture mascots. Barry-san (still not sure what he/she is) is the Imabari city mascot. I didn't know at first and used my very basic Japanese to ask about what the mascots were back at the train station store later.
Second breakfast haha.. was really looking for maybe the local pork/egg donburi or even onomichi ramen but no luck here
Several booths already laid out, some selling food, products, tourism, info... this location is the same as the finishing location for my group so they would be the same booths at the finish. Seems like there are many cycling events in Ehime prefecture (biking capital of Japan?) and many nice bikes/gear/outfits.... I thought it was funny that I would just be wearing my Converse the entire ride.
I like this photo, somewhat of a declaration for the event and really set my mood for the next day being here finally.
Shuttle back to the station, hoping those dark clouds don't dump on me
After getting back to Matsuyama, went straight to the cable car stop to find my way to Dogo Onsen. The signs in english made it very easy.
Tryiing to figure out how he's driving this thing.
The Botchan train... smoke comes out of it also hehe
Dogo shopping street leading up to Dogo Onsen
Mikan everywhere
Dogo Onsen, said to be the very first onsen in Japan and also some of the inspiration behind Studio Ghibli's movie Spirited Away/Sen to Chihiro.
Still haven't shaved
Not much for public nudity, especially given how crowded this place was (who could possibly relax like that?) so I did the cheaper option and took a tour instead. You see all sorts of people inside and it's weird that some people come across as professional bathers almost.... heh anyway, it was more interesting for me to experience the atmosphere and really tie in a lot of things from the ghibli movie to real life
Pictures aren't allowed inside for obvious reasons but could snap a selfie outside on the third floor at least. The tour also takes you to the Emperor's private quarters and bath. Said to have been made out of the best stone in Japan from Kagawa prefecture. Also has a fancy toilet where they scoop out the doo doo to examine for health purposes.
One of the local delicacies
Fish wrapped around a small bamboo stick
Very tasty, lot of sauce though
Front of Dogo Onsen. I heard it is closing soon for a long renovation (being historical property, needs government approval)... so I feel I was lucky with my timing to get to visit during this trip. You can also buy souvenir gifts inside, original towels/soaps and such which was nice to take back at least if you don't get a proper bath there.
Entire store dedicated to oranges
So of course I had to try at least one of their many different orange gelatos
And a small orange wrapped in mochi with ice cream... ¥400/each... hhmmm sounded better than it tasted.
Took a short stroll through Dogo Park since I was already there
Then rode the cable car back to the main shopping area near the hotel for dinner
Wanted to try more local foods and heard this was one of them. No english menu and I felt severely under dressed for this place but took a chance anyway
Phew, never tried this before... and after a little bit of hand gestures and picture guides from the waitress I think I figured out how to eat it correctly. Take the raw egg and sauce, mix well, then dip the raw fish into the egg, mix again, then pour over hot rice.... mmmm it was very delicious and happy to experience something different.
Night view of the popular Okaido shopping street. Just went back to hotel to prep for tomorrow and sleep early.

Day 9 - Shimanami Kaido Event

All prepped and ready to go!
The special cycle train to/from the event. Pretty good deal too and when else are you going to see a train full of bicycles riding on/off? Noticed also a lot of people with thermos in their bottle cages.... soup or tea??? hmmm
They even gave out bungee cords and bubble wrap to hold bikes
Bit cold in the morning... After getting off the train, had to ride a couple miles to the starting area... just followed the crowd really even though they took a different route than the info packet suggested.
Bag drop off with pick up at finish line area
Early morning booths near starting line. Everybody looked so cold but it wasn't so bad to me? Free red bull but I don't like.
My bike was the only one in the first group that could stand on it's own haha, kind of proud about that for some reason although I have one of those other race bikes also. I did get a lot of weird looks walking around with my bike, especially among the first group.
Everybody waiting for the start
Lining up in starting/event groups. Actually ran into a group of people from Hawaii riding in the event in the B group... the HBL event coordinator was also there so I just said Hi real quick and got back to my group.
Start line at the expressway entrance
Lots of people! Kick off ceremony also had English/Japanese speakers
First rest stop of the event... those bread sticks are great
Big raddish rest stop with mascot haha
After each rest stop they make you start again in waves, with one staff leading the next group out of the rest station and pacing too... great support.
Since all the rest stops were basically on different islands, they each served some form of local food/snack which turned out to be really great every time.
Made a good catch coming up to the halfway point... being able to draft others helped a lot and something I completely forgot about having ridden solo for the rest of the week. At the halfway point, you have to get on a short ferry ride over to Onomichi for lunch
Made it here at about 1050ish... making good time
I was so surprised by this rest stop simply because of the food. I was making good time still so I could rest a little more here and eat. I wanted to try Onomichi ramen but didn't get the opportunity... this okonomiyaki was awesome though... with onigiri and manju plus tea.... at a bicycle event??? perfect.
All the rest stops were just great... the event had great views, perfect weather. Had to force myself to save gopro battery. It was definitely one of, if not the most, scenic rides ever with great support too.
Waiting for the ferry again to start the journey back
Different ferry
The rest stop with the lemon heads hehe... There were a bunch of scary/creepy dolls and a bus lined up before this rest stop and it just seemed odd... I think I saw a documentary about it before... maybe this was the spot.
This place is called Sunset Beach haha so I had to take a picture
And of course the local snack here is lemon cake... unlike running marathons, I can manage to make it to check points and still get the good stuff hehe
Missed the picture of them actually playing
Rest stop with one of the many bridges I crosses this day
More rest stop food
More bridge views (these are all different bridges by the way)
More local food
Roast pork too?! wow
Obligatory bicycle photo op with the largest bridge in the background
Last bridge to the finish
Been following that blue line almost the entire day it seems (the usual bicycle path). A line formed toward the last 3 miles or so... I think due to traffic and just a lot of people finishing... made for an interesting (and slow) finish, almost as if it was just a set up for people to get their own photo op at the actual finish line. Two older men I've been riding next to for some miles took the opportunity to make comments on my choice of bicycle and all I got out of it in English was "double lever" which I assume were the downtube shifters... they seemed impressed with my ride.... it is a great bicycle and I appreciate it even more after this journey.
Made it! Kind of sad after crossing the last bridge and hard uphill finish. Made it in just before 430pm
Finisher's certificate
Bag pick-up
More free food
Same venue as check-in
More free food for finishers!
ohh sooo good... another local food... lucky I got to try it finally
Waiting for the cycle train back to Matsuyama just after 5pm. Only one time/train each way so it was very important to finish the ride on time and get back to the station.
Overall, so much good food I didn't even use my own gels or drink all my fluids... about 10,500ft of climbing (really?) and 94 miles. salt all over body and clothes. Gopro battery lasted so hopefully the video came out ok. Can't wait to weigh myself and ride my actual race bike to see any improvements. Felt surprisingly strong/ok after the event... lower back a little weak but legs ok. Perfect weather, perfect views, awesome food, no mechanical problems, strong, good roads, great paths. Lots of local foods, local people cheering (mostly elderly).
Took a short detour after getting back to Matsuyama just to check out the city center where the ferris wheel is
Not much else there that interested me, just typical main street
And last dinner in Matsuyama at "Torisen" based on strong recommendations... actually wanted to try this place the night before but was too booked. Tonight was much slower and they had room for me though.
Some say the best gyoza ever... I say close to it possibly... but just different and chicken based... tiny but very good, could probably eat 50 of them no problem (tonight just two orders with dinner).
Did chef's choice on the yakitori... all chicken based... supposedly only the best of the best chicken is used here.
Staff spoke just a little English and they were trying to be helpful to me... I always feel bad about it but thankful at the same time...
Meat and beer after a long day of riding... I'm a happy and satisfied guy
Always nice to watch them prepare the food as well

I was surprised at how much elevation showed up after on this but I guess with all the bridges it makes sense… constantly riding up to the bridge, then back down to the coast so it adds up?

The last leg of a very long week….

Final Day 10 - Matsuyama to Yokohama

Slept in past 8am, caught a later train than expected and missed out on hotel breakfast. Ate at the station instead.
Ticket office at the station made buying the tickets back to Yokohama easy... bike fits much better on shinkansen since there are three seats instead of two.
Just a lot of things to carry, plus omiyage to take back home
As always, need the bento and beer to go with the shinkansen
Passing through Kyoto, just thinking how fast the train is compared to bicycle... you almost expect the train to be instantaneous after the week I had.
Looking at Mt. Fuji again... thinking back to a week before when it all began

And that’s all folks!

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