Hiroshima & Miyajima

by Brianin Hiroshima, Japan, Yamaguchion Posted on

Hey again…. so this post has been a long time coming but I finally got around to typing something up for it. I took advantage of the July 4th holiday weekend to take a short trip over to Hiroshima and Miyajima… Hiroshima for its historical significance and Miyajima because of the good food and famous torii gate. I kind of had an idea of what I wanted to see before going but part of the difficulty in planning the trip was accounting for the emotional side of things… which is something new that I haven’t encountered before. While visiting Hiroshima I wanted to be respectful enough and keep an open mind to much of what I was going to see, but I wasn’t sure exactly how I would react while there which made planning some of my other activities around that time a little more difficult… wanting to enjoy while still being respectful and giving the place the thoughts it deserves…. am I making any sense? Ahh well, this trip turned out to be one of my favorite so far and I definitely want to go back (I think I say that about a lot of places in Japan)… especially Miyajima.

Day 1

I think the Shinkansen tickets were the most expensive part of the trip... about ¥19000 and 3-1/2 hours each way, but still more comfortable than airports and planes!
When I was looking at the maps prior to the trip, I saw stations all over the city which I assumed were like normal train stations... turns out they have more of a cable car system in Hiroshima... you can purchase a pre-paid card or just pay cash when you depart the car... my Pasmo card didn't work so I ended up paying cash. Took me a while to figure it out.
The place I was staying at was the only one I could find last minute that was relatively affordable... actually the cheapest place I've stayed at so far in Japan but good enough for just me... good location and the vending machine in the lobby made things a little nicer! Name of the place is Ikedaya Bekkan.
No bed, but that's fine
Air conditioning is a must... and I had a room with a bathroom/shower at least eheh
I think I got there just before noon and my first stop was the Peace Memorial museum and park. It was really crowded on a Friday so I didn't take too much time in there but from what I did see I felt how you would probably expect to feel. I think the museum gave me a good perspective prior to seeing everything else in the park and surrounding areas.
Children's Peace Monument
Atomic Bomb Dome
Atomic Bomb Dome
After spending some time walking through the park and viewing the numerous memorials, I walked over to Hiroshima Castle.
Most of the castle grounds are the remains of the original structures prior to the bomb... even more reminders of its destruction as I would find are everywhere in the city.
They did however rebuild the this tower which serves as the main attraction and museum.
They don't allow picture taking inside however at the top you get a nice view of the city.
This castle didn't take long to walk through everything so afterwards I headed over to Shukkeien Garden.
The garden is actually pretty huge but even at a place as peaceful as this there are still reminders of the bombing with makeshift graves for unidentified bodies that were found there.
The garden is kind of separated into different landscapes... some being more obvious than others.
They've got crabs too.
After the garden was dinner! Hiroshima is supposed to be known for their Hiroshima style okonomiyaki so that's what I wanted to eat. A website recommended going to Okonomi-mura, which is basically a skinny building pretty much dedicated to okonomiyaki.
I think there were a total of 4 floors of different okonomiyaki stands, as seen in this picture.. many of which were closed for some reason. I just ended up going with the one that was most crowded that day.
Yum! Usually I think okonomiyaki is just ok, however this one had me wanting to come back! I'm definitely a fan of this style now. After eating I walked back to the room through the Peace Memorial Park again.
Atomic Bomb Dome at night
Flame of Peace
The Peace Memorial Museum at night
Cenotaph for A-bomb victims with Flame of Peace and Atomic Bomb Dome in the background

Day 2

This is what one of the "stations" look like... splits the street in the middle.
Instructions for how to pay when riding the cable cars. Wish I saw this on the first day.
Very old style controls
Day 2 was Miyajima Island day, but before that it was recommended that I go see Kintai Bridge over in Iwakuni... just a little more south by train and about a 20-minute walk from the nearest train station. I got off at Kawanishi station, which is probably one of the oldest and simplest train stations ever...
I guess for better visibility crossing the street? On the way to the bridge.
Made it to the bridge!
At water level... with some fishermen. Didn't stay long because I wanted to spend as much time as possible at Miyajima. You can pay to cross the bridge and then tour around on the other side but that would've taken at least half a day.
This is Kawanishi Station... it was a little confusing figuring out how to pay because there is no IC card and only a vending machine to purchase tickets however nobody takes the ticket and when you transfer it could possibly be free? I still don't know, but I bought a ticket anyway.
Back at Miyajimaguchi, waiting for the ferry to the island
There are two different ferry companies which depart every 20 minutes or so... the trip itself doesn't take that long at all.
On the way to the island.
First view of the famous torii gate at Itsukushima Shrine
Ferry terminal on island
Just getting out of the ferry building... first encounter with the deer... this open courtyard leads to the popular shopping street. For this visit, I basically followed the course on the one-day map found on this website:

 http://visit-miyajima-japan.com/en/prepare-your-stay/e-brochure-et-e-cartes.html

They get hungry too hehe
Main street with most of the restaurants and shops
The world's largest rice paddle... another thing Miyajima is famous for... rice paddles
Momiji-manju maker! Very famous food from Hiroshima... so good hot and fresh! Many different flavors to try
Hiroshima/Miyajima is supposedly famous for Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, momiji-manju, oysters, and anago-meshi... all of which I made sure to eat! Especially the oysters, throughout the day.... sooooo good, in every form... brought back some memories from The Oyster Bar in Grand Central Station.
Anago-meshi
And then dessert at Miyajima Coffee shop
Walking towards Itsukushima Shrine, they offer boat rides to/through the torii gate at high tide (for a small fee I'm sure).
Popular photo spot, turning the corner towards Itsukushima Shrine
This is pretty much high tide... on the way down.
Looking at the gate from the shrine.
Older structures
Exiting Itsukushima Shrine, Daiganji Temple
They all have hats
Spinning wheels of sutra at Daisho-in Temple
I followed the map over to the Ropeway Station... it was beginning to rain but I wanted to go to the summit of Mt. Misen anyway. They have several hiking paths from sea level that lead to the summit however this is the easiest and fastest way.
On the way up
After two different ropeway cars, you end up at the top station, however from here it is still a short 30 minute(?) hike to the summit. The trail is a little tricky because you actually head downhill for the first 5-10 minutes and then it starts to head back up after that.
Along the way you come across this building. In it is the holy fire or eternal flame, which is said to have been burning for 1,160 years. They used this same fire to light the Flame of Peace at the Peace Memorial Park in Hiroshima.
At the summit! Can't see anything!
I think it's great that there are always people with food and drinks, just relaxing and enjoying the scenery together.
After heading all the way back down to sea-level, I found more oysters!
Hiding from the rain
Using the crosswalk
Miyajima Pier
Hey look! The tide went down, what awesome luck!
Heading back to the torii gate
It's a bit wet, but I had my rain boots
One of my favorite pictures
I was looking for fish flopping around but I guess they're smarter than that...
You can literally go up and touch the gate... apparently people put coins between all the marine growth? Not sure why but never expected to see so much money on the ground there.
Big difference from earlier in the day. This pretty much wrapped up my long day on the island (and what a great day it was!). On the way back I picked up some dessert and souvenirs to take back with me.
Deep fried momiji-manju with ice cream in a waffle bowl? Yes please!
Like an anago-manapua!
And of course, more oysters!
So I know this was a big thing gaining popularity in Hawaii right before I left but I didn't really see much of it in Japan until coming across this poster.
Picked up dinner after getting off the ferry, before heading back to Hiroshima.
Then, winding down in my room with some roasted sweet potatoes from Miyajima

Day 3

Last day waking up in Hiroshima... hadn't purchased my return Shinkansen ticket yet but thought I'd just take my time and go for a morning walk.
Western side of Hiroshima Castle
View from across the water
Breakfast at Tully's... couldn't find too many open places to eat yet.
Nice, peaceful morning
On the way back through the park, I stopped by the Peace Memorial Hall and it just so happens they were getting ready to open (around 0830).. Had time so I decided to check it out and I pretty much had the place to myself for the first half hour there. Sitting in the Hall of Remembrance by myself was an especially touching experience for me. On the way out you can watch videos from survivors, look up history in the library, and even search through their database of all the known victims from the bomb. This gave me pretty good closure to the trip and I would definitely recommend you visit, along with the museum.
Return trip

Although it was just a weekend trip, I enjoyed it very much, especially Miyajima Island. I would go back just to stay on the island for a couple nights, hike and explore the rest of the island, and of course, eat more food!

It’s hard to believe I’ve been here over a year already… time is flying and I’m just trying to make the most of it. Experienced so many great things in the past year and there’s still so much more to do and see here… it’s pretty crazy… and if that wasn’t enough, I just got a new job/promotion here so even more changes to come…. we’ll see how that affects my situation here in a bit… hopefully for the better.

This past month was a real scorcher, especially with all the humidity… but it seems like the intense part of summer is over. Been trying to go to as many firework shows and bon dances since this is the season… more to come on those later! Take care till then

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